TAP WATER

Tap water can contain various chemicals and compounds that can be harmful to fish and other aquatic life in a fish tank, such as chlorine, chloramine, heavy metals, and high levels of dissolved solids. It is important to prepare tap water before adding it to a fish tank to ensure a healthy environment for the fish.

Here are the steps to prepare tap water for a fish tank:

1. Dechlorinate the water: Tap water is often treated with chlorine or chloramine to kill harmful bacteria and other microorganisms. Chlorine and chloramine can be toxic to fish, so it is important to remove them before adding the water to the tank. Use a dechlorinator that is specifically designed for aquarium use, which is available in most pet stores.

2. Check the pH and hardness levels: The pH and hardness levels of tap water can vary depending on the area where it is sourced. It is important to check the levels and adjust them if necessary to match the needs of the fish species in the tank. This can be done using aquarium test kits and pH or hardness buffers.

3. Remove any heavy metals: Tap water can contain heavy metals such as copper and lead that can be harmful to fish. Use a water conditioner that can remove heavy metals from the water.

4. Add beneficial bacteria: Adding beneficial bacteria to the water can help establish a healthy bacterial balance in the tank, which is important for maintaining water quality and keeping the fish healthy. This can be done by adding a bacterial supplement to the water.

5. Allow the water to age: It is a good idea to let the water age for a few days before adding it to the tank. This allows any remaining chemicals to evaporate and the water to reach room temperature, which can help prevent shock to the fish.

By following these steps, tap water can be prepared for a fish tank and provide a healthy environment for the fish and other aquatic life.

 

HEATER

Once filled the heater needs to be switched on – most if not all of you will either have a submersible heater in the tank or the sump (a tank under the tank for equipment and filtration).

An aquarium heater is an essential piece of equipment for maintaining a stable water temperature in your aquarium. It works by using a heating element that is placed in the water and regulated by a thermostat. There are several reasons why an aquarium heater is important:

1. Temperature regulation: Most tropical fish require a consistent water temperature in order to thrive. An aquarium heater helps to maintain a stable temperature range, which can prevent stress, illness, and even death in your fish.

2. Seasonal changes: If you live in an area with seasonal temperature changes, an aquarium heater can help to maintain a consistent water temperature for your fish, even during cold weather.

3. Species-specific needs: Some fish, such as bettas and discus, require a specific temperature range in order to thrive. An aquarium heater can help to maintain the necessary temperature range for these and other temperature-sensitive species.

4. Breeding: If you plan to breed your fish, an aquarium heater can be essential for creating the ideal conditions for breeding and hatching.

When selecting an aquarium heater, it's important to choose one that is appropriate for the size of your tank and the needs of your fish. It's also important to ensure that the heater is properly installed and regulated to prevent overheating or underheating of the water. Many aquarium heaters come with safety features such as automatic shut-off and temperature regulation to help prevent accidents and maintain a stable environment for your fish.

In our warmwater aquaculture systems on fish farms or public aquariums we tend to use inline heaters but these are too industrial for most home aquariums.

FILTRATION

Again – as with water quality this is another minefield which could be a separate book – I call it the cause and solution to all of aquarium problems. Whilst necessary to maintain water quality, having the wrong filter system can cause diseases and poor water quality.

Aquarium filtration is the process of removing waste, debris, and toxins from the water in an aquarium, typically by using a filter system. This is an essential aspect of maintaining a healthy aquarium environment for fish, plants, and other aquatic life.

Aquarium filters work by circulating water through various media, such as sponges, bio-balls, or filter floss, which trap and remove impurities from the water. There are three types of filtration: mechanical, biological, and chemical.

Mechanical filtration is the process of physically removing particles and debris from the water. This type of filtration is typically the first stage in a filtration system and is often achieved using a sponge or filter pad that traps large particles of debris.

Biological filtration relies on beneficial bacteria to break down harmful compounds in the water, such as ammonia and nitrite, which are produced by fish waste and uneaten food. The bacteria convert these compounds into less harmful nitrate, which can then be removed through water changes. Biological filtration typically involves the use of bio-media, which provides a surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow.

Chemical filtration is the use of chemical media, such as activated carbon or zeolite, to remove impurities from the water. These materials can absorb or remove chemicals and other contaminants that may not be removed by other forms of filtration.

All three types of filtration can be used in combination to provide comprehensive water filtration in an aquarium. The choice of filtration system and media will depend on the size and type of the aquarium, the type of fish and plants, and the water parameters.

Overall, proper aquarium filtration is essential for maintaining a healthy and thriving aquatic environment. It helps to remove waste, toxins, and other harmful compounds from the water, which can improve water quality and reduce stress and disease in fish and other aquatic life.

Over filtration:

I have had many clients in the past think they are doing the eco system a favour by adding too much filtration to a system.

Over filtering a fish tank can have several negative effects on the aquarium and its inhabitants. Here are some of the harmful effects of over filtering a fish tank:

1. Loss of Beneficial Bacteria: Over filtering a fish tank can lead to a loss of beneficial bacteria, which play a crucial role in the nitrogen cycle that helps to break down waste in the water. If the filter is too powerful or the filter media is replaced too frequently, it can remove too many beneficial bacteria, leading to a cycle that is not fully established or one that is disrupted, leading to an accumulation of toxins in the water.

2. Stressful Environment: Fish can become stressed in an environment that is over filtered. This is because an overly powerful filter can cause strong water currents and waves, which can be too intense for the fish, making them struggle to swim and causing them to become fatigued.

3. Oxygen Depletion: Over filtering a fish tank can lead to a decrease in the amount of dissolved oxygen in the water. This happens when the filter is too strong or the water is circulated too much, which can cause the oxygen to be depleted before the fish have a chance to use it.

4. Poor Water Quality: Over filtering can lead to rapid water flow, which can prevent particles from settling and cause them to remain suspended in the water. This can result in a cloudy, murky appearance and poor water quality, which can harm the fish and other aquatic life.

 

There are several types of aquarium filters that can be used to keep the aquarium water clean and clear. Here are some of the most common types:

1. Hang-On-Back (HOB) Filters: These filters hang on the back of the aquarium and draw water up through a siphon tube, then pass it through a filter cartridge before returning it to the tank. HOB filters are easy to install and maintain and are suitable for small to medium-sized aquariums.

2. Canister Filters: Canister filters are an external filtration system that typically sits beneath the aquarium. They use a pump to draw water out of the tank and pass it through a series of filter media inside the canister before returning it to the aquarium. Canister filters are ideal for larger aquariums and can be more effective than HOB filters. This would be my number one recommendation for the home aquarium – they are compact and are more forgiving of higher stock densities and over feeding than internal filters – not that having one of these is a license to over stock or overfeed.

3. Internal Filters: Internal filters sit inside the aquarium and are powered by an electric motor. They draw water in through an intake tube, pass it through a filter media, and then return it to the aquarium. Internal filters are suitable for small aquariums or for use as a supplemental filter in larger aquariums.

4. Sponge Filters: Sponge filters are simple filters that use a sponge-like material to trap debris and waste. They are ideal for small aquariums or as a supplemental filter in larger aquariums. They are easy to maintain and can be used as a biological or mechanical filter.

5. Power Filters: Power filters are similar to HOB filters but are more powerful and can filter a larger volume of water. They typically use a filter cartridge and are suitable for medium to large-sized aquariums.

Overall, the choice of aquarium filter will depend on the size of the aquarium, the type of aquatic life, and the desired level of filtration. It is important to choose the right filter and to maintain it properly to keep the aquarium water clean and healthy for the fish and other aquatic life.

LIGHTING

Your aquarium most probably came with its own light, if however you have opted for a custom tank then you will need to choose lights. I would recommend LED’s with a slightly redder spectrum for a freshwater tropical tank.

There are several types of aquarium lighting available, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Here are some of the most common types:

1. Fluorescent Lighting: This type of lighting is more energy-efficient than incandescent lighting and produces less heat. It is also available in a wide range of colours and spectrums, making it suitable for a variety of aquatic plants and fish. Fluorescent lighting is widely used in aquariums and is generally an affordable option.

2. LED Lighting: LED lighting is rapidly gaining in popularity as a preferred option for aquarium lighting. It is extremely energy-efficient, long-lasting, and can produce a wide range of colours and spectrums. LED lighting is also more expensive than other types of lighting, but the long-term cost savings in terms of energy usage and bulb replacement can make up for the initial cost.

3. Metal Halide Lighting: This type of lighting is very powerful and produces a lot of heat and light. It is generally only used in large aquariums or in aquariums with high light requirements, such as those containing reef tanks with corals. Metal halide lighting is expensive and can be difficult to maintain, but can produce excellent results when used properly.

4. Compact Fluorescent Lighting: This is a type of fluorescent lighting that uses a compact bulb that is similar in size to an incandescent bulb. It is more energy-efficient than incandescent lighting and produces less heat, making it a good choice for small to medium-sized aquariums.

The choice of aquarium lighting will depend on the type of aquatic life in the tank, the desired level of light, and the budget available. It is important to choose the right type of lighting and to use it properly to ensure the health and well-being of the fish and other aquatic life.

Top of Form

 

Now you have your tank setup and full of water – it needs what we call “aquascaping”.  

There is an excellent series of books by Takeshi Amano on aquascaping if you would like some inspiration check them out.

What species are you keeping? There is not point in having a beautifully manicured planted aquarium and adding Oscar fish to it, they will destroy the plants by digging them up. Equally if you are keeping larger fish with more boisterous attitudes then you would choose stones and large pieces of bog wood.

Aquascaping is the art and practice of designing and arranging aquatic plants, rocks, stones, wood, and other decor in a fish tank to create a visually appealing underwater landscape. It involves careful planning and a creative approach to create a natural-looking habitat for fish, invertebrates, and other aquatic organisms.

Aquascaping can range from a simple arrangement of a few plants to complex and intricate designs with multiple layers, hardscape elements, and carefully chosen plant species. The goal of aquascaping is to create a balanced and harmonious ecosystem within the aquarium, with healthy and thriving plants, fish, and other aquatic life.

There are several different styles of aquascaping, each with its own unique characteristics and design principles. Some of the most popular styles include:

1. Nature aquarium style: This style is based on the idea of creating a miniature natural ecosystem within the aquarium. It often features a lush and densely planted arrangement of different plant species, with natural-looking hardscape elements such as rocks and wood.

2. Dutch style: This style is characterized by a high-contrast arrangement of different plant species in a symmetrical layout. It often features a wide variety of plant species with different colours and textures.

3. Iwagumi style: This style focuses on the arrangement of rocks and stones to create a minimalist and elegant landscape. It often features a simple layout with few plant species, with the rocks and stones serving as the main focal point.

4. Biotope aquarium: This style aims to replicate a specific natural habitat or ecosystem within the aquarium. It often features a carefully selected combination of plants, rocks, and fish that are native to a particular region or environment.

Aquascaping is a popular hobby among aquarium enthusiasts and requires careful planning, research, and attention to detail. It involves creating a balanced and sustainable environment within the aquarium, which can be both visually stunning and beneficial for the aquatic life it supports.

Cover the back of the aquarium with a black background is what I recommend, other colours or those planted backings can look tacky. You can buy some pre formed backing panels which look like rocks, these are good but the downside is they can get covered in algae and be hard to clean.

 

 

How long before you can add fish?

A colleague of mine once said “you have to have the patience of job to look at an aquarium with no fish in it”.

Some people say a week, others do a fishless cycle, sometimes if we are doing a trade show or a temporary display we cheat and bring in mature water and filter media so we can add fish straight away.

My personal thoughts are the reason you let the tank sit is so we can check mostly for faulty equipment, we are making sure the pump is sound and the temperature is stable.

I use a small amount of hardy fish to start an aquarium cycle, in the average fish tank it would be a case of adding say six small hardy fish which can tolerate swings in poor water quality.

FEED AS LITTLE AS THEY NEED – ignore what most food packages say, they are trying to get you to feed more so you run out of food and buy more!

Fish barely need any food to survive, so as the nitrogen cycle is kicking off you want to let the nitrogenous wastes (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) build up slowly over time.

When a new aquarium is set up, it is essentially a sterile environment. There is no bacteria present in the water or in the substrate, which is necessary to break down waste produced by fish. These beneficial bacteria convert harmful ammonia produced by fish waste into less harmful nitrite, and then convert nitrite into nitrate, which can be removed by water changes.

During the cycling process, a source of ammonia is introduced into the aquarium, which can come from fish food, pure ammonia, or live fish. The ammonia is then converted into nitrite and then into nitrate as the beneficial bacteria establish in the aquarium.

It is important to monitor water parameters during the cycling process, including ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels, as well as pH and temperature. This will allow you to track the progress of the cycle and ensure that the conditions are safe for fish before they are added.

It typically takes several weeks for the cycling process to complete, but the exact time frame can vary depending on a variety of factors, including the size of the aquarium, the type and amount of beneficial bacteria present, and the source of the ammonia.

By allowing an aquarium to cycle before adding fish, you can establish a healthy and stable environment for your aquatic pets, which can reduce stress and improve their overall health and well-being.

There are a lot of products on the market aimed at boosting bacteria in the filter – these can help but I prefer the traditional method of adding fish an NOT OVER FEEDING THEM!!!

Introducing your fish to the tank

Introducing new fish to an aquarium can be an exciting and rewarding experience, but it's important to do it properly to ensure the health and safety of both the new fish and the existing fish in the aquarium. Here are some steps to follow when introducing new fish to an aquarium:

1. Quarantine the new fish: Before introducing the new fish to the main aquarium, it's important to quarantine them in a separate tank for a few weeks. This will help to ensure that they are free from disease and parasites and can also help them acclimate to a new environment.

2. Acclimate the new fish: Once the quarantine period is over, it's important to acclimate the new fish to the main aquarium gradually. Start by floating the bag or container that the new fish is in on the surface of the aquarium water for about 15 minutes to equalize the temperature. Then, gradually add small amounts of aquarium water to the bag or container over the next hour or so to help the new fish adjust to the water chemistry.

3. Release the new fish: Once the new fish has been acclimated, it's time to release it into the main aquarium. Turn off the aquarium lights and dim the room lights to help reduce stress on the new fish. Open the bag or container and let the new fish swim out on its own.

4. Observe the new fish: Watch the new fish closely for the first few hours to make sure it is adapting well to the new environment and is not being bullied or harassed by the existing fish.

5. Monitor the water quality: Introducing new fish to an aquarium can affect the water chemistry, so it's important to monitor the water quality closely for the first few days to ensure that ammonia and nitrite levels are under control.

By following these steps, you can help ensure a smooth and successful introduction of new fish to your aquarium.

 

When setting up a new aquarium, it is important to choose hardy fish species that can tolerate the fluctuations in water parameters that may occur during the initial cycling process. Some examples of hardy tropical fish species that are suitable for a new tank include:

1. Neon Tetras: These small, colourful fish are popular for their vibrant blue and red colours, and they are easy to care for.

2. Zebra Danios: These active, hardy fish are ideal for new tanks and can tolerate a wide range of water conditions.

3. Platies: These peaceful and colourful fish are easy to care for and are a great addition to a new tank.

4. Guppies: These colourful fish are popular for their bright colours and hardy nature, making them an ideal choice for new aquariums. I nearly did not add these to the list – in breeding has made guppies less tolerant over the years to water quality changes.

5. Corydoras Catfish: These small, bottom-dwelling fish are peaceful and easy to care for, and they can help keep the substrate clean.

It is important to note that even hardy fish species still require proper care and attention, including regular water changes and appropriate feeding. It is also important to avoid overstocking the aquarium, as this can lead to poor water quality and stress for the fish.

When choosing fish for a new tank, it is always a good idea to consult with a knowledgeable fish store employee or experienced hobbyist to ensure that the chosen species are suitable for your specific setup and that their needs are met.

Testing Water Quality

You can over do most things in the aquarium hobby, too much food, too many water changes, too many fish etc. But you cannot over test the water. The annoying thing about aquariums is they get easier as time goes on, new aquariums are tricky as the bacteria has not established as swings in water quality detrimental to fish health are more common.

I feel the perfect tank cycle takes about 4 – 6 weeks after fish are introduced. The ammonia will gently spike, come back down as nitrite gradually comes up and then drops back to nitrate.

Most good fish shops will offer water quality testing as part of their services so if you do not have the time or inclination to become a basic water quality analyser for now then bring samples into the shop.

TIP: Always ask a shop before you bring water into them, some shops are more careful than others and might have strong bio security measures in place to prevent the transfer of diseases.

At first feeding your fish on flake food once a day will suffice, try and feed in the same place and at the same time, morning or evening – you will notice it will not take long for the fish to remember when and where they are fed – far from the two second memory we are led to believe.

COMMON FISH DISEASES

Preventing fish disease is key, if you’re looking at the fish in the tank and they are mixed with other species – ay you see a lovely little kribensis which looks healthy but is in a tank with neon tetras with white spot – it would be foolhardy to purchase any fish from this tank and white spot could be in a microscopic stage.

Equally if you see reddening on the fish, blood streaks or tail rot then best not to buy from that tank.

NOTE: All fish shops no matter how good they are will experience fish health issues from time to time, if you go into a shop once and notice a tank of struggling fish it does not necessarily mean they are a bad shop – give them a second chance because they might have just had a delivery and there was an issue with the courier not getting the fish to them on time.

Some shops have the luxury of a quarantine system and thus diseased fish can be hidden from public view and give the impression all the fish are healthy.

Fish disease are mostly in four categories:

Parasites, Bacteria, Virus and Fungal.

PARASITES

Fish parasites are organisms that live on or inside fish and can cause a variety of health problems. Parasites can infect both freshwater and saltwater fish, and they can be difficult to diagnose and treat. Some common fish parasites include:

1. Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (Ich) - A common parasite that causes white spots on the skin and gills of fish. Ich can be treated with medication and by raising the temperature of the water.

2. Gyrodactylus - A microscopic parasite that attaches to the skin and fins of fish and can cause irritation, redness, and tissue damage. Gyrodactylus can be treated with medication and good tank maintenance.

3. Flukes - Flatworms that can attach to the gills, skin, or internal organs of fish and cause respiratory problems, weight loss, and other health issues. Flukes can be treated with medication and good tank maintenance.

4. Anchor worm - A crustacean that burrows into the skin of fish and can cause inflammation and tissue damage. Anchor worms can be removed manually or with medication.

5. Fish lice - Small crustaceans that attach to the skin of fish and can cause irritation and tissue damage. Fish lice can be removed manually or with medication.

Preventing fish parasites involves maintaining good water quality, quarantining new fish before adding them to the tank, and avoiding overfeeding and overcrowding. It is also important to carefully inspect fish for signs of parasites before adding them to the tank. If you suspect that your fish have a parasite, it is important to seek advice from an aquatic animal health specialist, who can recommend appropriate treatment options.

Bacterial Infections

Bacterial infections are a common problem in aquarium fish. They can be caused by a variety of factors, including poor water quality, overcrowding, stress, and injury. Mostly caused by not cleaning the filter out enough. We will come onto this in the maintenance section.

Some common bacterial infections in aquarium fish include:

1. Columnaris disease: This is a bacterial infection that can affect both freshwater and saltwater fish. It is characterized by white or greyish patches on the fish's body, fins, or mouth.

2. Aeromonas infection: This is a bacterial infection that can cause fin and tail rot, as well as ulcers on the fish's body. It is often caused by poor water quality or overcrowding.

3. Pseudomonas infection: This is a bacterial infection that can cause red sores on the fish's body, as well as fin and tail rot.

4. Mycobacteriosis: This is a bacterial infection that can be difficult to diagnose, as it can mimic other diseases. It can cause weight loss, lethargy, and lesions on the fish's body.

To prevent bacterial infections in aquarium fish, it is important to maintain good water quality by performing regular water changes, avoiding overfeeding, and keeping the aquarium clean. It is also important to avoid overcrowding and to quarantine new fish before adding them to the main aquarium. If a bacterial infection is suspected, it is important to isolate the affected fish and seek veterinary advice. Treatment may involve antibiotics or other medications, as well as improving the fish's environment to boost their immune system.

White spot Disease

also known as ich or ick, is a common and highly contagious fish disease that affects both freshwater and saltwater fish. It is caused by the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, which can infect fish when their immune systems are weakened by stress, poor water quality, or other factors.

Symptoms of white spot disease include the appearance of small, white spots on the fish's skin, fins, and gills. The fish may also become lethargic, lose their appetite, and exhibit rapid breathing or gasping for air. As the disease progresses, the white spots may become more numerous and larger, and the fish may develop other secondary infections.

Fortunately, white spot disease can be treated if caught early. One effective treatment involves raising the temperature of the aquarium to 86°F (30°C) for several days, which speeds up the lifecycle of the parasite and can help to kill it off faster during treatment – of medications such as formalin, but these should be used with caution and in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, as they can be harmful to fish if not used correctly. Most shops sell specific treatments for white spot. Make sure the treatment is safe for the species you have – some fish will not tolerate certain chemicals.

Preventing white spot disease in the first place is the best approach. This can be done by maintaining good water quality in the aquarium, avoiding overcrowding and stress, and quarantining new fish before introducing them to the main aquarium. It is also important to maintain a healthy and balanced diet for your fish, and to avoid overfeeding, as excess food can contribute to poor water quality and stress.

By being aware of the symptoms of white spot disease and taking prompt action to treat the disease or prevent it from occurring, you can help keep your fish healthy and thriving in your aquarium.

Velvet Disease

Velvet disease, also known as Gold Dust Disease, is a common parasitic infection in tropical fish. It is caused by a microscopic parasite, Oodinium pillularis, and can affect a variety of freshwater and saltwater fish species. Some common symptoms of velvet disease in tropical fish include:

1. Fine golden or rust-coloured dusting on the skin or fins of the fish

2. Loss of appetite

3. Lethargy

4. Rapid breathing or gasping at the surface of the water

5. Flashing or rubbing against objects in the aquarium

To treat velvet disease in tropical fish, it is important to act quickly. The following steps can help:

1. Quarantine the infected fish: Remove the infected fish from the main aquarium and place it in a quarantine tank to prevent the disease from spreading to other fish.

2. Raise the temperature: Velvet disease thrives in cooler water temperatures, so raising the temperature of the aquarium to 82-86°F can help to kill the parasites.

3. Medication: There are several medications available that can be used to treat velvet disease in tropical fish, including copper-based medications, malachite green, and formalin.

4. Water changes: Frequent water changes can help to remove excess parasites and waste from the aquarium, which can help to improve water quality and reduce stress on the fish.

5. Monitor the fish: Watch the infected fish closely to ensure that it is recovering and showing signs of improvement. If the fish does not improve, it may be necessary to seek additional treatment or veterinary care.

Prevention is key in the fight against velvet disease in tropical fish. Maintaining good water quality, avoiding overfeeding, and keeping stress levels low can help to prevent the disease from occurring in the first place.

 

 

Bacterial Infections

Bacterial infections are a common problem in tropical fish tanks. There are many different types of bacteria that can cause infections in fish, and the symptoms can vary depending on the type of bacteria and the severity of the infection.

Some common signs of bacterial infections in fish include:

• White or grey patches on the skin

• Redness or inflammation around the fins or gills

• Loss of appetite or weight loss

• Lethargy or unusual behaviour

• Difficulty swimming or floating

• Rapid breathing or gasping for air

• Cloudy or bulging eyes

To prevent bacterial infections in your tropical fish tank, it's important to maintain good water quality, provide a healthy diet, and avoid overcrowding the tank. It's also a good idea to quarantine new fish before introducing them to your main tank, to prevent the spread of any diseases they may be carrying.

If you suspect your fish have a bacterial infection, it's important to take action quickly to prevent the infection from spreading to other fish in the tank. Treatment options may include antibiotics or other medications, as well as adjustments to the tank's water chemistry or filtration system. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove the infected fish from the tank to prevent the spread of the infection.

A nasty bacterial infection you can get in the aquarium is also what we call ‘zoonotic’ which is the transference of disease from animal to human. If you have any signs in your aquarium of fish TB of mycobacterium then wear gloves if you have to put your hand in the tank or preferably do not put your hand in the tank.

Mycobacterium is a type of bacteria that can infect fish and cause a disease known as fish tuberculosis or mycobacteriosis. This disease can affect both freshwater and saltwater fish, and it is often chronic and difficult to treat.

The symptoms of mycobacteriosis in fish can vary depending on the species of fish and the severity of the infection, but they often include:

• Weight loss and loss of appetite

• Lethargy or unusual behaviour

• Skin discolouration or lesions

• Swollen abdomen or other body parts

• Difficulty swimming or floating

• Fin rot or other fin damage

Mycobacterium can be transmitted to fish through contaminated water or by contact with infected fish or equipment. Fish that are stressed or have weakened immune systems are more susceptible to infection.

Unfortunately, there is no easy cure for mycobacteriosis, and infected fish often have to be euthanized to prevent the spread of the disease to other fish in the tank. A vet could prescribe antibiotics for the fish but would need a positive result.

If you suspect that your fish may have mycobacteriosis, it is important to seek advice from a veterinarian or an aquatic animal health specialist, who may recommend testing and quarantine measures to prevent the spread of the disease. In addition, maintaining good water quality and practicing good aquarium hygiene can help reduce the risk of mycobacterium infection in fish.

Fish tuberculosis, also known as mycobacteriosis, is a disease that is caused by Mycobacterium marinum, a type of bacteria commonly found in freshwater and saltwater fish. Although the bacteria can cause infections in humans, the infection is rare and usually not serious.

The bacteria can enter the human body through cuts, abrasions, or other wounds, and it can cause a skin infection or a deeper infection that affects the bones or joints. Symptoms of Mycobacterium marinum infection in humans may include redness and swelling around the affected area, along with pain, stiffness, and difficulty moving the affected limb. The symptoms may take several weeks or even months to appear.

Mycobacterium marinum is not highly infectious and is not transmitted from person to person. The risk of infection can be reduced by wearing gloves and other protective equipment when handling fish or cleaning fish tanks. It is also important to properly clean and disinfect any wounds that may come into contact with aquarium water.

If you suspect that you may have a Mycobacterium marinum infection, it is important to seek medical attention. Treatment typically involves a course of antibiotics over several months, and in some cases, surgery may be necessary to remove infected tissue.

 

Fungal infections in fish

Quite often a secondary infection from a bacterial infection. Fungus only grows on necrotic tissue which has been killed off by a bacterial infection.

Fungal infections are a common problem in fish tanks and can affect both freshwater and saltwater fish. Fungal infections are usually caused by a combination of poor water quality and a weakened immune system in the fish.

The most common symptom of a fungal infection is the development of white or greyish patches on the fish's skin, fins, or eyes. These patches may be fuzzy or cotton-like in appearance, and the affected area may be swollen or red. The fish may also become lethargic and lose their appetite, and in severe cases, the infection can spread to other parts of the body and cause organ damage.

To treat a fungal infection, it is important to identify and address the underlying cause of the problem. This often means improving water quality through regular water changes and filtration, and providing a balanced and nutritious diet for your fish. Additionally, there are several medications that can be used to treat fungal infections, such as antifungal medications and antibiotics. These medications are usually available in pet stores or from a veterinarian.

Prevention is the best way to avoid fungal infections in your fish tank. This means maintaining good water quality, avoiding overcrowding and stress, and quarantining new fish before adding them to the main aquarium. Regular water changes, proper filtration, and keeping the tank clean can also help prevent fungal infections.

In summary, fungal infections are a common problem in fish tanks that can be caused by poor water quality and a weakened immune system in the fish. Identifying and addressing the underlying cause of the problem, along with the use of appropriate medication, can help to treat the infection. Prevention is the best approach, and maintaining good water quality and avoiding stress can help keep your fish healthy and free from fungal infections.

Viral Infections

Preventing viral infections in fish tanks involves maintaining good water quality, avoiding overcrowding, and ensuring that new fish are quarantined before being added to the tank. If a viral infection is suspected, infected fish should be isolated and veterinary advice should be sought. Unfortunately, there are often no specific treatments for viral infections, and prevention is the best approach.

General Maintenance of Aquariums

Regular maintenance is essential to keep your home aquarium clean, healthy, and looking its best. Here are some general maintenance tasks you should perform on a regular basis:

1. Water changes: Regular water changes are important to remove excess waste, uneaten food, and other debris from the aquarium. Depending on the size of your tank and the number of fish, you may need to perform partial water changes weekly or bi-weekly.

2. Filter cleaning: The filter is the heart of your aquarium's filtration system, so it's important to keep it clean and functioning properly. You should clean or replace the filter media, depending on the type of filter you have, according to the manufacturer's instructions.

3. Gravel vacuuming: Using a gravel vacuum, siphon out any debris that has accumulated on the bottom of the tank. This will help prevent the build-up of harmful waste materials in the aquarium.

4. Algae removal: Algae can be unsightly and can also consume nutrients that your fish need. Regularly scrape or scrub algae from the glass and other surfaces in the aquarium. If algae is particularly stubborn, you can use an algae scraper or chemical treatments, but be sure to follow the instructions carefully.

5. Equipment maintenance: Regularly check the equipment in your aquarium, including the heater, thermometer, and lighting, to make sure they are functioning properly. Replace any equipment that is not working properly.

6. Fish health: Observe your fish regularly for any signs of illness or distress, such as discolouration, lethargy, or loss of appetite. If you notice any issues, consult with a veterinarian who specializes in aquatic animals.

By performing these regular maintenance tasks, you can help ensure that your home aquarium stays healthy and beautiful for both you and your fish to enjoy.

How to clean aquarium filter sponges

Aquarium sponges are an essential part of your aquarium's filtration system, and it's important to keep them clean to ensure they are functioning properly. Here are some steps to follow to wash your aquarium sponge:

1. Turn off the filter: Before removing the sponge, turn off the filter to prevent water from flowing through it.

2. Remove the sponge: Carefully remove the sponge from the filter and place it in a clean container of aquarium water. Do not use tap water, as it may contain chlorine or other chemicals that could harm your fish.

3. Squeeze out the sponge: Using your hands, gently squeeze the sponge to remove any excess debris and waste. Be careful not to squeeze too hard, as this can damage the sponge.

4. Rinse the sponge: Rinse the sponge thoroughly in the container of aquarium water to remove any remaining debris.

5. Soak the sponge: To further clean the sponge, you can soak it in a bucket of aquarium water mixed with a small amount of aquarium-safe cleaner, such as bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Follow the instructions on the cleaner carefully and rinse the sponge thoroughly afterwards.

6. Replace the sponge: Once the sponge is clean, place it back in the filter and turn it back on.

It's important to clean your aquarium sponge regularly to prevent a build-up of waste and debris, which can harm your fish and reduce the effectiveness of the filtration system. Depending on the size of your aquarium and the number of fish, you may need to clean your sponge every week or two.

 

Cleaning biological media if you have it

Biological media, such as ceramic rings or bio-balls, are an important part of your aquarium's filtration system, as they provide a surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow and thrive. It's important to keep biological media clean to ensure that your aquarium's filtration system is working effectively. Here are some steps to follow to clean your biological media in a fish tank:

1. Turn off the filter: Before cleaning the biological media, turn off the filter to prevent water from flowing through it.

2. Remove the biological media: Carefully remove the biological media from the filter and place it in a clean container of aquarium water. Do not use tap water, as it may contain chlorine or other chemicals that could harm your fish.

3. Rinse the biological media: Rinse the biological media thoroughly in the container of aquarium water to remove any excess debris and waste. Be careful not to use hot water, as this can kill the beneficial bacteria.

4. Soak the biological media: To further clean the biological media, you can soak it in a bucket of aquarium water mixed with a small amount of aquarium-safe cleaner, such as bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Follow the instructions on the cleaner carefully and rinse the biological media thoroughly afterwards.

5. Replace the biological media: Once the biological media is clean, place it back in the filter and turn it back on.

It's important to clean your biological media regularly to prevent a build-up of waste and debris, which can harm your fish and reduce the effectiveness of the filtration system. Depending on the size of your aquarium and the number of fish, you may need to clean your biological media every few months. However, it's important not to clean it too frequently, as this can disrupt the beneficial bacteria colonies that are essential to the aquarium's ecosystem.

Vacuum siphoning the substrate (usually gravel)

Vacuum siphoning the substrate in your aquarium is an important part of regular maintenance, as it helps to remove excess debris and waste from the bottom of the tank. Here are some steps to follow when vacuum siphoning aquarium substrate:

1. Gather the necessary equipment: You will need a siphon vacuum or gravel vacuum, a bucket, and a hose or tube to connect the vacuum to the bucket.

2. Turn off the filter: Before starting, turn off the filter to prevent debris from getting sucked into the filter and clogging it.

3. Insert the vacuum into the aquarium: Place the siphon vacuum into the aquarium and let the tube or hose hang outside the tank. Be sure to position the vacuum in an area where there is a lot of debris on the substrate.

4. Start the siphon: Suck on the end of the tube or hose to start the siphon. Once the water starts flowing, place the end of the tube or hose into the bucket to collect the dirty water.

5. Vacuum the substrate: Use the siphon vacuum to clean the substrate by gently stirring it up with the vacuum and letting the debris get sucked into the tube. Be careful not to disturb the plants or decorations in the aquarium.

6. Clean the substrate thoroughly: Continue to vacuum the substrate until the water runs clear and all the debris has been removed.

7. Replace the water: Once you have finished vacuuming the substrate, replace the water that was removed with clean, dechlorinated water.

By following these steps, you can help ensure that the substrate in your aquarium is clean and free from excess debris and waste. Regular vacuum siphoning can also help to improve the water quality in your aquarium and reduce the risk of health problems for your fish.

 

 

Algae Cleaning

Cleaning algae off the glass or acrylic of your fish tank is an important part of aquarium maintenance, as algae can not only look unsightly but can also be harmful to your fish if it is allowed to grow out of control. The process of cleaning algae off glass versus acrylic tanks is slightly different, so it's important to know the proper methods for each type of tank.

Cleaning Algae Off Glass Tanks:

1. Gather the necessary equipment: You will need a scraper or a magnetic algae cleaner, a bucket of water, and a clean cloth or paper towel.

2. Scrape the glass: Use a scraper or a magnetic algae cleaner to gently remove the algae from the glass. Be sure to use gentle, smooth strokes to avoid scratching the glass.

3. Rinse the scraper: After each pass, rinse the scraper in the bucket of water to remove any debris or algae that has been scraped off.

4. Wipe the glass: Once all the algae has been removed, use a clean cloth or paper towel to wipe down the glass and remove any remaining debris.

Cleaning Algae Off Acrylic Tanks:

1. Gather the necessary equipment: You will need a soft sponge or a special acrylic-safe algae scraper, a bucket of water, and a clean cloth or paper towel.

2. Wet the surface: Wet the surface of the acrylic with water, which will help to loosen the algae.

3. Scrub the acrylic: Use a soft sponge or a special acrylic-safe algae scraper to gently scrub the algae off the acrylic. Be sure to use gentle, circular motions to avoid scratching the acrylic.

4. Rinse the surface: Rinse the surface of the acrylic with clean water to remove any remaining algae or debris.

5. Wipe the surface: Once all the algae has been removed, use a clean cloth or paper towel to wipe down the surface of the acrylic and remove any remaining debris.

It's important to note that it's best to avoid using abrasive materials, such as steel wool or rough scrubbing pads, on both glass and acrylic tanks, as they can scratch the surface and damage the clarity of the tank.

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NOW FOR THE FUN BIT – THE FISH!

It is what we have got into the aquarium hobby for in the first place -

Let us learn about the different types of community fish available from most local fish shops.

 

Fish are classified into neat little sections – mostly using Latin. The reason we use Latin is because the fish are usually from the other side of the world and Latin is the universal name in all languages so if we ordered a ‘dragonfish’ from Asia expecting a goby – an arowana would turn up. So we order in Latin to save any confusion.

Tropical fish come from many different scientific orders, depending on the species. Some examples of scientific orders that include tropical fish species are:

1. Perciformes: This order includes many popular tropical fish species, such as angelfish, cichlids, and guppies.

2. Cypriniforms: This order includes species like tetras, rasboras, and barbs, which are commonly kept in tropical freshwater aquariums.

3. Siluriformes: This order includes catfish species, such as Corydoras and Plecos, which are popular bottom-dwelling fish in many tropical aquariums.

4. Characiformes: This order includes species like neon tetras, black skirt tetras, and hatchetfish, which are also popular in many tropical freshwater aquariums.

5. Beloniformes: This order includes species like the swordtail and the halfbeak, which are also commonly found in tropical freshwater aquariums.

These are just a few examples of the scientific orders that include tropical fish species. It's important to research the specific needs and requirements of the species you are interested in keeping, to ensure that they are compatible with your aquarium and that you can provide the appropriate care for them.

Characins are the typical fish associated with community tanks such as neons.  

Cichlids again would make up a separate book – but there are some community cichlids such as kribensis and apistorgamas which can be kept in a community aquarium.

Barbs I sometimes loathe to call community fish as they can have a habit of nibbling at long fins.